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2014 Gmc 1500 ? Battery drains.

#1 User is offline   Vrooom Icon

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Posted 21 January 2020 - 09:42 AM

Updated my truck awhile back. Picked up a 2014 Gmc 5.3 60k on it. So its more of a drive way queen. So it sits for a week plus at a time. It likes to drain the battery after sitting for a few days. Even quickier in the cold. I had to replace the battery but it still does the same thing. The alternator charges at roughly 14-16 volts. Which is standard
for these models. I have done a draw test with a Volt meter from the battery to the negative term. Didnt get a amp draw out of the range. Im getting close to wiring up a second battery under the hood or putting a battery cut off switch. Never had this issue with my 02. Any ideas? I have searched the interwebs with no good answer.
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#2 User is offline   WillMill Icon

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Posted 21 January 2020 - 12:30 PM

Does it have anything aftermarket on it? Remote start? Stereo? LED lights? How many amps was it drawing when everything is off? There are a few different ways to isolate the problem and determine what is draining the battery.
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#3 User is online   Rider Icon

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Posted 21 January 2020 - 02:09 PM

I used this video in the last month to help find a parasitic drain on my dads car. If you are saying nothing is out of range on the amps not sure if will help. This guy says 50ma is the max draw you should see at rest.

https://www.youtube....h?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
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#4 User is offline   Johnbigdog Icon

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Posted 21 January 2020 - 07:59 PM

Fords spec is also 50 mA (.05 amps) if you have a drain that comes and goes this may be why you dont see it. If your D.V.O.M. has a min max function you may be able to watch it over a longer time with this function, but to isolate the drain I would want to see that draw amount while pulling fuses.

One thing to do with the draw test is to NOT lose the battery conection as this can reset a module and fix it for a while. If you have to, you may neet to rig up a battery disconect tool to insure you dont have a drain.
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#5 User is offline   Jim Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 06:35 AM

View PostVrooom, on 21 January 2020 - 09:42 AM, said:

I have done a draw test with a Volt meter from the battery to the negative term. Didn't get a amp draw out of the range.


View PostJohnbigdog, on 21 January 2020 - 07:59 PM, said:

One thing to do with the draw test is to NOT lose the battery connection as this can reset a module and fix it for a while.


These two statements make me wonder how you are conducting the test? Measuring current requires the meter to be connected in series with the load. To accomplish this, the battery circuit must temporarily be broken to insert the meter.

It's possible to measure the voltage across a known resistance (a battery cable for example) and use Ohm's law to deduce current, but most home mechanics don't have the tools to accurately measure the (very low) resistance of a battery cable.

It's also possible to use a clamp-on ammeter (around a battery cable) but again most home mechanics don't have that type of tool.
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#6 User is offline   Johnbigdog Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 07:55 AM

View PostJim, on 22 January 2020 - 06:35 AM, said:

These two statements make me wonder how you are conducting the test? Measuring current requires the meter to be connected in series with the load. To accomplish this, the battery circuit must temporarily be broken to insert the meter.


I use 2 power circuits. The meter is installed before I break the battery conection so that all curent goes through the meter after a 45 min wait. Until then power has 2 roots to take. I just break the redundant/primary circuit.

So the process I use,install battery disconect tool. clear codes. Test drive and use everything. See if any DTCs come back. Wait 45 min with doors/opening open and latches closed so the car thinks the doors are closed.

After the 45 minuets I install my meter over the battery disconect and then open the battery cable. The battery conection should not be lost unless I bumped something.

On a side note, I'm dealing with new Lincolns and Fords. A lot of the stuff I deal with is modules and communicated messages. 2014 is OLD for me. I know for a fact that if you disconect the battery on a 16 or newer lincoln that the instrument cluster will not shut down until you cycle the push button ignition switch and result in a 1-1.6 amp draw.

This is my angle. Dont know if it will help, just wanted to share some knowledge/expirience.

Btw, battery drains SUCK!
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#7 User is offline   Vrooom Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 08:56 AM

View PostRider, on 21 January 2020 - 02:09 PM, said:

I used this video in the last month to help find a parasitic drain on my dads car. If you are saying nothing is out of range on the amps not sure if will help. This guy says 50ma is the max draw you should see at rest.

https://www.youtube....h?v=zdIKNnwEjIs


I have no aftermarket lights or accessories . I did something similar to this. Were I put my Fluke meter in series with the battery. I didn't check the voltage before hand. I will put my tender on it and full charge it and give it another shot. Thanks Guys this will help give it another shoot. Any thoughts on a dual battery system if I cant find anything? The Gmc has a second tray under the hood.
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#8 User is offline   Jim Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 11:07 AM

View PostJohnbigdog, on 22 January 2020 - 07:55 AM, said:

The meter is installed before I break the battery conection....

Thought of that after posting, makes sense. Especially if, as you stated, interrupting the circuit might reset whatever is causing the drain. Good troubleshooting technique!

Vrooom, personally I'd try to find the cause of the drain rather than double-up the battery. Doubling the battery would just give you twice as long between failures. But it begs the question why does it have an extra battery tray?

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#9 User is offline   Vrooom Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 12:16 PM

View PostJim, on 22 January 2020 - 11:07 AM, said:

Thought of that after posting, makes sense. Especially if, as you stated, interrupting the circuit might reset whatever is causing the drain. Good troubleshooting technique!

Vrooom, personally I'd try to find the cause of the drain rather than double-up the battery. Doubling the battery would just give you twice as long between failures. But it begs the question why does it have an extra battery tray?


That is a good technique. Jim they share the same front end of the 2500. They can run two batteries in stock form. For plows and such. I keep think about putting a random storage box there also.
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#10 User is offline   WillMill Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 12:33 PM

View PostVrooom, on 22 January 2020 - 08:56 AM, said:

I have no aftermarket lights or accessories . I did something similar to this. Were I put my Fluke meter in series with the battery. I didn't check the voltage before hand. I will put my tender on it and full charge it and give it another shot. Thanks Guys this will help give it another shoot. Any thoughts on a dual battery system if I cant find anything? The Gmc has a second tray under the hood.


Find the cause of the drain, or install a battery disconnect. Dual batteies will also drain, and now you've got two expensive batteries to replace. I had an issue with a battery drain on my pickup. I installed a disconnect because I don't use my pickup unless Im towing or hauling, which can be weeks or months in between. I never had a dead battery again after the disconnect. Fast forward a few years, I found a two-way remote start under the dash. The remote start was constantly searching for the remote. I disconnected that, and boom, no more drain.
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#11 User is offline   miweber929 Icon

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 09:03 PM

Youíre on the right track, try to find the drain. Iíve got a Ď16 Silverado with the 5.3, like 55k or so on it, and it sits weeks at a time in all weather without issue so there should be no need to band-aid it. Original battery as well.
Owners do weird shit, any chance you have something plugged in to a 12V plug that should shut off but doesnít? Any additional turn signals, outlets, bed lights on, etc.? How about interior lights? Iím just trying to think of other things it could be.
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Posted 23 January 2020 - 08:10 AM

View Postmiweber929, on 22 January 2020 - 09:03 PM, said:

Youíre on the right track, try to find the drain. Iíve got a Ď16 Silverado with the 5.3, like 55k or so on it, and it sits weeks at a time in all weather without issue so there should be no need to band-aid it. Original battery as well.
Owners do weird shit, any chance you have something plugged in to a 12V plug that should shut off but doesnít? Any additional turn signals, outlets, bed lights on, etc.? How about interior lights? Iím just trying to think of other things it could be.


Nope all stock.I dont leave anything plugged in. I have also checked the box lights x times to make sure they werent left on. Going to wait to till a warmer day and give it another shot.
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#13 User is offline   WillMill Icon

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 12:26 PM

There were some issues with the radios in some of those trucks where they issued a recall for reprogramming. You might need to visit a dealer for an update.
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Posted 24 January 2020 - 06:07 AM

Do you have an aftermarket radio?
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Posted 24 January 2020 - 08:07 AM

Nope all stock
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